Earlier this week I took part in a blind wine tasting. I did not do well. So I'm not going to blog about it, other than to say that I am proud that I didn't wuss out (as I have been known to in the past), went with my gut instinct, and guessed incorrectly on every wine put in front of me.

  Instead, let's talk about a brand new Port that just hit Binny's shelves last week: Noval Black.

  This new non-vintage Port is a great example of the style for less than $20. The nose is typical for fortified wine: lots of alcohol along with candied cherry and plum, hints of herbal notes and maybe mineral, like pencil lead. On the palate, though, the wine explodes: A serious tannic spine frames everything – candied, jammy raspberry fruit and sugar dominate the midpalate, backing off at the finish to expose the more delicate vanilla and orange peel, but still framed in tannins. This is a big Port, and drinks like a compact version of a 2007 for a fraction of the price.

  I wanted to know how well it would stand up to my benchmark for non-vintage Port, the Graham's Six Grapes, so we opened a bottle. The experience suddenly got a lot more intimidating when two glasses were set in front of me with no indication of which was which.

  Blind tasting is a lot easier when it's multiple choice, the odds are 50/50, and when you've tasted one of the wines immediately before.

  It was the tannic frame of the Noval Black that gave it away. The Six Grapes, which I still hold as an excellent value for Port, especially one that is drinkable now, shows much more plush fruit with a softer body and lighter, more sweet and spicy (baking spices – like nutmeg) nature. By contrast, the Black is big and sturdy, less pretty and more muscular.

  I'm always puzzled that Port isn't selling better as a category. Not only are vintage Ports some of the most unique and ageworthy wines in the world, but the non-vintage blends offer some of the best values out there. Stopped up and stored in the fridge, a bottle can last for a week or two (though it will evolve over that time), compared to the one or two day lifespan of a table red. Port pairs well with nuts and cheese, or maybe chocolate or cheesecake, or maybe just the relaxing end to your day.

  I urge the uninitiated to give Port a try, and either the Graham's Six Grapes or the Noval Black would be a great place to start.