Yesterday, a handful of Binny’s wine geeks were hosted for lunch and some Champagne. The venue was fancy, and the wine list was unbelievable. To fit in, I dressed as much like a lovable, turn-of-the-century hobo as I could, sort of a step up for me. We had a delicious lunch, but I found it difficult to pay attention to the food because of the wine.
When I walked in the room, somebody handed me a glass of bubbly. It was fine. A little toast, light green apple fruit, acidity, a tiny bit of residual sugar. What else could you want? The hint of sugar made me guess it was domestic, until somebody revealed it as Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. Not a bad start. The rest went like this:
First Flight: M&C, Ruinart
Toasty nose with plenty of limestone. Cool. Some baking spice on the palate marzipan? Tropical fruit to round it out, apricots and dried pineapple.
Also toasty on the nose. At this point I’m expecting it to be a theme today. Also a note of strawberry candy. The rose is broad and weighty on the palate, with lower acidity that allows the plush fruit to push across. (Interesting note: the oddball 2003 vintage reached maturity ahead of the 2002, so it was released before the 2002.)
Lighter on the nose, and more fresh and perfumed. Orange blossom. Very plush and fruity on the palate with even lower acidity than the M&C rose. For a multivintage Champagne, this is very fresh.
Super toasted, yeasty, nutty on the nose. There’s this wonderfully broad texture and, while quite dry, shows dessert notes like burnt creme brulee and waffle cone. Caramel, vanilla, baked apples. This stuff … this pushes the right buttons. This is a contender for favorite of the day, and at $135, might be one of the better values. If you like Champagne, try this.
Orange citrus and cream on the nose. This one is a thinker the primary fruit has faded so that the whole thing is round and seamless without any exclamation point. But then there’s the texture, it has a lot of spine. It’s interesting, but seems overshadowed by some of the more forward and obvious samples.
Second Flight: Veuve, Dom P.
(Forgive me if I repeat myself; there are common themes here.) Caramel, vanilla on the nose. Fruit like tart apples and underripe apricot, with some acidity. What it should be.
Interesting nose that, if I didn’t know better, I would not guess as a pink wine. The nose has hints of honey and cinnamon, and maybe promises more than the mellow, berry on the palate. Maybe this young wine will gain complexity with age.
Smells absolutely like candy. Complex citrus I dunno tangerine? The distinctive nose hints at great breadth. Take the time to really smell this wine. The fruit on the palate reminds me of a bigger version of the 2002 Veuve apples and other white fruit, plus framed well in acidity.
Quiet nose. This is how I remember Dom from the handful of times I’ve tried it, from the last several vintages: refined, not overblown. Woody, toasty, creamy, well-rounded wine with low fruit and lots of yeasty notes. They promise it will unwind with time, and I’ve never had the chance to taste it old.
The biggest difference between the Oenotheque and vintage Dom Perignon is a lot more time on the lees. It shows. Also, they didn’t scrimp on the wood. This is massive, broad, amped up Dom Perignon. Maybe the most exaggerated bubbly on the table today, and maybe my favorite.
Less intense than the Oenotheque for sure, and even the 2002 Dom Perignon. Something of a conundrum: this falls into Dom’s trademark bready, woody, broad style, which isn’t usually the profile I’m looking for in a rose.
Third Flight: Krug
On the nose: toast and vanilla, of course, and also … lime? The fruit broadens on the palate. It’s like dried pineapple and brown sugar and honey. Plus there’s tons of focused acidity, so despite the broad fruit, it stays monolithic. Outstanding.
A little less bread on the nose than the vintage Krug, but just as big. Huge creamy flavors and textures, more cream than spice. If given the choice between two bottles of the Grande Cuvee or one of the vintage, I’d have to go with the two. This is fantastic.
The dessert sat on the table in front of me as I nosed the Krug Rose: cherry clafoutis tart, vanilla creme fraiche. What? Before I saw it, I didn’t know what that was, but that’s how I’d describe the nose on the Krug Rose, exactly. Strawberries and cream on the palate, and of course toast and baking spices. So amazing.
But Wait, There’s More
As a surprise, they opened a bottle of 1992 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection (I think it’s a recently disgorged release) And that was fine, just fine. So that was that. I find events like this a little embarassing, a little over the top. The wines speak for themselves, and being presented with so much high-end bubbles all at once is a little overwhelming. Overall, it gets a thumbs up.