1797 | Spirits, Austria, $20 to $50

"Brilliant peridot color. Pungent medicinal herb, melon rind, bitter lemon peel, cinnamon bark, and spicy meringue aromas follow through on a brisk, lively entry to a mildly sweet medium-full body with wintermint, honey, camphor, and clove accents. Finishes with a long, mint leaf and aniseed husk fade. Tasted louched as an absinthe cocktail: Round, balanced with great interplay of mint, spice, herb, citrus, dried flowers and milder bitter artemesia pontica notes. Very refreshing as an aperitif or digestif; would make a brilliant introduction to absinthe."

"Reddish mahogany color. Sweet spicy herbs, wet zoo animal, and oily ox leather aromas follow through to a sweet, winey medium-bodied palate with jumbled spices and herbs, wet fur, charred barrel water, and sandalwood flavors. Finishes with a sugary, astringent, pink peppercorn fade and scorched spices. A curious blend of sweet spice and barnyard flavors, try with goat cheese."

"Reddish mahogany color. Sweet spicy herbs, wet zoo animal, and oily ox leather aromas follow through to a sweet, winey medium-bodied palate with jumbled spices and herbs, wet fur, charred barrel water, and sandalwood flavors. Finishes with a sugary, astringent, pink peppercorn fade and scorched spices. A curious blend of sweet spice and barnyard flavors, try with goat cheese."